Mumbai spanking chat

“It is kulfi (an Indian ice-cream) in its melting position," says Giani, when asked exactly what a rabdi falooda is.

At the bottom of the "melting position" are rice noodles.

The atmosphere of puris frying and the Jama Masjid rising up ahead is a re-affirming one, and a bowl of suji (semolina) halwa and a potato curry eaten with four fried puris (Rs 20) makes for a rich and historic brunch. Paaya nahari, the sound of which is reminiscent of a nomad and his only pet, are cooked for hours into a rich curry and served with a fluffy, hot tandoori roti for Rs 180 (full plate) and Rs 8, respectively.

One plate of four pieces for Rs 165, is a generous serving eaten with romali roti.

But you might order more as you lose yourself in the epic-ness of this gastronomical experience.

I’ve walked these by-lanes with my grandmother who insisted the best jalebi was on a particular corner, and with my grandfather who insisted the best chai was on another.

When I re-visit it this time I have a mission to dispel and to reaffirm -- in the steam of the best chai and the oil of the best puris -- the traditional eating advice for old Delhi.

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Established in 1889, these parathas (other fillings include cashews, bananas, mint and rabri) are perfectly textured.

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